U-point and better spot removal.

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Tried searching, but didn't find comments about U-point... So yes, U-point technology for LR3 would be fantastic. Like in Nik plugins and Nikon NX software. Pretty much everyone who have tried it agrees that it is the ultimate tool for "masking".

The only really annoying thing about LR2 is the spot/dust removal tool. It is just not practical not being able to "wipe" stripes off because the tool is round shaped and you can't do a wiping motion with it.

yeah.
 
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I would contend that U-Point is a bit like Spot Removal. It is a bit restricted because the points are circular. It is good, but not ultimate; that would be a combo of U-Point and Brush.
 
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pmu;398'1 said:
The only really annoying thing about LR2 is the spot/dust removal tool. It is just not practical not being able to "wipe" stripes off because the tool is round shaped and you can't do a wiping motion with it.

yeah.
Click to expand...


I agree 1''% with this. It's much better done on Aperture.
 
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I am not sure I understand this thread in the right way.

Are you talkinging about SPOT only removal, or about "wiping out unwanted objects"?

The last 1 doesn't work (for me) in LR and Photoshop Elements (7) and Nikon NX2 produces the same results, not better, not worse.

My problem with understanding what is wrtitten is that I don't use U-point for this at all: just wipe in small "spots".
 
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wblink said:
I am not sure I understand this thread in the right way.

Are you talkinging about SPOT only removal, or about "wiping out unwanted objects"?

The last 1 doesn't work (for me) in LR and Photoshop Elements (7) and Nikon NX2 produces the same results, not better, not worse.

My problem with understanding what is wrtitten is that I don't use U-point for this at all: just wipe in small "spots".
Click to expand...

U-point for technology for correcting colors, contrast etc. - not for removing spots etc.


And yes, I would like to have a "wiping out objects" (for example a long scratch in film scan) -tool.
 
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pmu said:
U-point for technology for correcting colors, contrast etc. - not for removing spots etc.


And yes, I would like to have a "wiping out objects" (for example a long scratch in film scan) -tool.
Click to expand...

You're right.
PSE7 and NX2 both do wiping out. The result is very dependent on the way you do it, but in my opinian both prgms have teh same result: no winner, no looser.

I expirience that taking little surfaces-amount at a time works best: the software has to be able to see the surroundings of the removed area and copy that into the place where you removed it. The results are different every time. Seems to be lucky guess, thus difficult to do.
 
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OK, gurus, I know you can make a bunch of spot reductions from one frame and apply them to another frame [of the same orientation], but is there a way for the spot locations be rotated somehow so when you change from landscape to portrait the spots get nuked? Rather like a rotate 9' degrees, left or right, as the need dictates?
 
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GonzoBernelli said:
OK, gurus, I know you can make a bunch of spot reductions from one frame and apply them to another frame [of the same orientation], but is there a way for the spot locations be rotated somehow so when you change from landscape to portrait the spots get nuked? Rather like a rotate 9' degrees, left or right, as the need dictates?
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Welcome. If you are shooting RAW, the rotation is just another metadata info point. LR is looking at the untouched RAW file, so for this rotation does not matter.

Don
 
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Ha, ha! Wonderful news! Thanks you for the quick response.


Dang, Utah is dusty! Maybe is because of all the photographers going there for the wonderful scenery and changing lenses all the time - the dust bunnies are escaping from the mirror chambers and breeding in the wild...:shock:
 
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GonzoBernelli said:
OK, gurus, I know you can make a bunch of spot reductions from one frame and apply them to another frame [of the same orientation], but is there a way for the spot locations be rotated somehow so when you change from landscape to portrait the spots get nuked? Rather like a rotate 9' degrees, left or right, as the need dictates?
Click to expand...
Well, I never tried with different orientations but I can tell you this:

If you make a spot correction and move the source, this will be the same from frame to frame. But if you make a spot removal and don't touch the source automatically choosen by Lightroom, the source will be free to change from frame to frame.

Now, if the target (spot to be removed) move relative to the orientation, I did not checked. That would be fine if you report back on this last point...
 
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Just a couple of words of wisdom to avoid these post-processing woes, with apologies if I'm taking you over ground you already know.

1. ALWAYS turn off your camera before changing lens. When switched on, the ccd caries a charge which attracts dust like a magnet does metal filings.

2. hold the camera body facing down, change the lens as quickly as possible, cap the lens you take off.

3. If you pick up dust spots, use the 'mirror-up' setting in the tools menu to raise the mirror, then carefully use a mechanical blower (NEVER a pressurised can of air) in a clean, dust-free environment to blow away dust from the sensor - but be VERY careful not to touch the sensor. 9 times out of 1' this will save you a sensor clean bill.

Patrick Cunningham
 
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