How to get such sharpen images?

terry7cook

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Hi,

There is a wedding photographer I follow which has amazing photos, I know he uses the Canon 1DX which helps him a lot with getting such images, but is also a lot of retouching in lightroom here.

Here are few examples from his page:
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?...20332921.33259.163038603719196&type=1&theater

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?...20332921.33259.163038603719196&type=1&theater

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?...20332921.33259.163038603719196&type=1&theater

I use the 5DMK3 which is also great, but never get even close results to what you see here, does anyone know how to make the pictures looks so sharp through lightroom?
BTW I know of some other photographers who uses the 1DX as well and don't get the same high end result, it's a lot of lightroom work to get it...

Thanks.
 

Jack Henry

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One thing I've just done to improve the sharpness of my images was to actually get them in focus. I calibrated my lenses using the SpyderLensCal. I didn't realise they were so far out. My Nikon (as will your 5D) allows for fine tuning your autofocus for each lens.
 

terry7cook

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terry7cook

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One thing I've just done to improve the sharpness of my images was to actually get them in focus. I calibrated my lenses using the SpyderLensCal. I didn't realise they were so far out. My Nikon (as will your 5D) allows for fine tuning your autofocus for each lens.

Never heard of this product before, thanks.
 
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Hi,

First, Facebook is not the best place to critically view images. They are known to highly compress images, and that can have a very negative impact on the quality of the image. So, it is hard to get overly critical (in terms of offering suggestions) because we are viewing less than optimal images.

With regards to my saturation comment, the greens in the images that the other photographer posted seem awfully saturated, IMHO. I was not there when the photos were taken, but I do not normally see greens that are quite that vibrant. I suspect that some saturation was increased when the images were post-processed. Or, if they were shot as jpeg files, then the camera settings were set to increase the color saturation.

Regarding your photos, I think that your composition is good, but I cannot really get into the technical details because the images do not easily allow detailed criticism (see comment above about FB). I am not sure how much you have used LR, but a few tutorials would probably help you to master sharpening, a concern in your original post. And if the majority of your work will be posted on the web, as opposed to being printed, than the difference between his camera and your camera is really very little.

Good luck,

--Ken
 

CloudyBright

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If I may suggest:
Upload one of your images in RAW in a zip file.
Let users here download your image and process it - to see what can be done in Lightroom - then they can upload the finished image.
Anyone?
 

siloxr

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Those look like HDR, Brenizer method, or some other sort of multishot compositing (like maybe focus stacking too?) technique to me.
HDR: http://digital-photography-school.com/19-beautiful-examples-of-hdr-done-right/
Brenizer Method: http://blog.buiphotos.com/2009/07/the-brenizer-method-explained-with-directions/

That said, if your goal is sharpness, make sure you're shooting in the sharpest zone for your camera/lens combo (specifically ISO and f-stop)--Google should be able to help you here.

Lr can do HDR, but I'm not sure if you can do Brenizer in Lr.
 

terry7cook

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I have worked on few of my images and did all the editing so it will have a similar look as much I could.
The result is pretty nice, but if you have 200 photos there is no possible way you can implement that on all of them...
And also the Brenizer technique, you can't do that for 100-200 photos, maybe 1-3 and that's it, the other photographer have lot's of this type of photos from a single wedding, obviousely he
came out with a way in lightroom to make this easier.

Here is my picture:
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/22733428/_MG_0105.jpg
 

terry7cook

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Have you tried asking the photographer who is producing the look that you like? Maybe he/she will tell you what they are doing.

No way he is going to explain this, it's exactly as asking him his workflow so I can copy it..
And I really don't want to copy just to take this "sharpness part".
 

Bryan Conner

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No way he is going to explain this, it's exactly as asking him his workflow so I can copy it..
And I really don't want to copy just to take this "sharpness part".
The worst that can happen is that he will say no. I have asked other photographers questions such as this and some of them have provided the answer. Lots of photographers like to share their knowledge with others.
 

awp

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I think it has far more to do with the quality of light in his images. Your first image is under exposed and you're using on camera flash. He's using sunlight and off camera flash. That is the starting point - you need to improve the images in camera before you start worrying about processing.
 

IanGains58

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I'm another fan of the Spyder Lens Cal, especially if you use longer telephoto lenses. You adjust the back-focus of the lens, essentially calibrating the focus to be as sharp as the lens/sensor combination allow. I'm a 7D user, so this is extremely important with the APS-C sensor, with the further magnification factor.
You can always soften 'sharp' images, but there is only so much you can do with images that aren't pin sharp on capture.
 

Nogo

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Those photos to me look like the photographer simply used the medium or strong contrast setting under the point curve setting in the Tone Curve Box. Would be no problem applying that to hundreds of photos. Try that to some of your photographs and see if they "look sharper" to you.

I sometimes use the medium contrast setting when I have a flat looking photo taken in poor light and it will make the picture look sharper even if it is not truly sharpening the image. If you do it to a photo that looked decent to start, it will give it an extra sharp look in my opinion.
 

Jack Henry

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I'm another fan of the Spyder Lens Cal, especially if you use longer telephoto lenses. You adjust the back-focus of the lens, essentially calibrating the focus to be as sharp as the lens/sensor combination allow. I.

How far do you stand back with the telephoto when using the SpyderLensCal ?
 

IanGains58

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I've used the SpyderLensCal with my 70-300ml L, 100 mm L macro, & the 24-105mm L. In all 3 cases, I used the max focal length at the maximum aperture. I stood about 7-12m from the tripod with the target on it. I took three shots at -4, 0, +4 and picked the best, & then narrowed down the range to get the best result. So long as you dial out any huge difference from the original setting, the exercise is worth it. The logic says that all focal lengths should be good after doing this, so maybe check out another focal length while you are at it.
 

Jack Henry

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Thanx gainsi.

I did my zooms at the short end of the range but may check the other end too. After all, that's the end I generally use them at.
 

IanGains58

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I'd certainly check them Jack, as that is the critical part of the range where errors will be magnified. I do a fair bit of aircraft photography at Melbourne Airport, so the 70-300mm L gets a lot of use on moving targets, & it performs very well.
 

terry7cook

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Thanks to all of you for commenting, happily I have ordered the Canon 1DX yesterday, it should be here around next week, I don't think that I will have any problem at all in the next and far future with sharpness :)

I will upload few photos with the new camera to see the difference.
 

Jack Henry

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I was at Melbourne airport last week. It was wet and miserable. I flew over to bring a horse truck back to Adelaide for a friend Red eye over and back here by 6:00 pm. Nice drive apart from the first couple of hours in the rain.
 

1fastvx

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terry7cook,

You never mention what lenses you are shooting with, this could make a huge difference sharpness wise!!

John
 
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terry7cook

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terry7cook,

You never mention what lenses you are shooting with, this could make a huge difference sharpness wise!!

John
Sorry :)
I have the 24-70 2.8 canon. And canon 70-200 2.8. Awsome lenses!
both of them are less a year old, and haven't been used a lot.
 
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Derelict

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So, is this possible through LR6? I know that I can do stitching, although I have never tried it, but it is something that I want to take a shot at. I do not, and will not ever, have any interest in purchasing PS. I like LR as it is closer to darkroom techniques where you modify/ tweak rather than create a photograph.

I do, however, want to give this method a go. Has anyone tried it?
 

Jack Henry

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Another method I use to check the lens focus is 'Dot-Tune' and as an added benifit, it's free. See this Youtube clip about the method.
 
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